Quick Start Guide: Woodland Mills RCS28 PRO Chainsaw Chain Sharpener

Sharpening chains can sometimes feel like more work than the cutting itself. That’s why we introduced the RCS28 PRO chain sharpener. It’s designed to make sharpening as simple and hands-off as possible, especially if you’re running through multiple chains in a day. 

In this video, you can follow along with Marek as he goes through some quick steps to get your RCS28 PRO running smoothly and sharpening efficiently.

Mounting and Power Setup

To start the setup, the sharpener needs to be mounted on to a sturdy workbench or stable surface. When mounting, it is helpful to have the unit slightly outwards off the top of the bench, to account for the chain’s hanging clearance.

Once mounted, connect it to a 12 volt battery power source. The sharpener runs off a twelve-volt battery using the included positive and negative clamps. 

Alternatively, the Woodland Mills Sharpener Converter Kit allows the sharpener to be plugged into a standard wall outlet.

Installing the Grinding Wheel

Included with the RCS28 PRO are 2 different sized grinding wheels. A 4mm thick grinding wheel, which is included for chains such as 3/8 pitch, .325, ¼ pitch and a 6.4mm thick wheel for larger profile chains like .404, or for depth gauges or rake teeth.

Prior to any wheel installation or adjustments, double check chain specifications from the original chain box to ensure the right grinding disc is selected.

After installing the wheel, spin it by hand to ensure it spins true and freely.  Once everything feels smooth, turn on the sharpener briefly to confirm the wheel runs smooth and straight at high RPM. 

Profiling the Grinding Wheel 

Now that the grinding wheel is on, profile it to match the pitch of the chain. 

Included with the RCS28 PRO is a profiling gauge. Each slot on the gauge corresponds to a specific chain pitch. The variance in the way the grinding wheel fits in the slots shows the amount needed to be adjusted to match the profile.

Also included is a whetstone. Once the profile is determined, use the whetstone to grind the disc into shape.

Turning the sharpener on and the wheel, let the wheel shape itself to that profile with very gentle contact with the whetstone. Turn off the sharpener frequently to inspect progress and check the profile.

Setting the Chain & Angles 

To set up the chain, take note of things like chain pitch, top plate angle, and depth gauge height when setting the chain up to the sharpener.

The unit will automatically clamp the chain into the groove during sharpening.

Pitch Setting

Set the pitch to match the chain—such as 1/4, .325, 3/8, or .404. 

This pre-sets the advancer to advance the chain accordingly. 

Top Plate Angle

The sharpener features pre-set angles that can be adjusted under the grinding head to match the top plate angle of the chain. As always, check the chain specifications from the supplier or original box.

With the power-off, adjust the angle using the provided Allen-key. To do this, loosen the screw on the inside of the unit and move the cutting head to match the desired top angle.

Tilt Angle

Some chains require a certain tilt angle. Which is the vertical slope inside the tooth. This can be set on the head tilt knob to match the desired tilt.

Grinding Depth

The sharpener features a depth knob, which is used to control how much bottom material the disc sharpens. Set it so the wheel stops just as it reaches the gullet, without digging too deep or into the rivets. 

Safety and PPE 

Before sharpening, make sure to wear proper safety gear.  Always wear safety glasses and use gloves when handling the chain.  Always stand slightly off to the side of the grinding wheel, and never directly in line with it. 

Turning the Advancer On

Some adjustments like the top plate angle, pitch setting, and grinding disc can be done before turning on the unit.

However, things like depth, advancer position, and other fine tuning, will need the machine turned on to get the exact settings needed for a good sharpening and to ensure everything is performing smoothly.

Before turning on the advancer, find the double link in the chain. If the chain doesn’t have one, put the chain on at any point. If there is a double link, it is recommended to put it first in the sequence. This gives a clear starting reference point for every chain and avoids disrupting the alternating teeth sequence. 

Once placed, position the chain so the advancer plate is positioned directly behind the rivet after the first cutting tooth.

Sometimes the grinding head’s top plate angle will be mismatched with the way the chain has been installed. If this is the case, the positioning button changes the position of the grinding head to match the top plate angle of the first tooth.

Advancer Assembly and Depth Adjustment

The advancer can be easily tuned with an adjustment screw to increase or decrease the advancement of each cutting tooth to match the positioning of the grinding head disc.  

In low speed, turn on only the advancer, and let the unit begin moving the chain. Observe the position of the tooth in relation to the grinding disc as the disc comes down. Ensure that the disc is lightly touching the face of the tooth and does a clean sweep of the tooth gullet above the rivets.

If the tooth is too far forward, loosen up the advancer adjustment screw. If it’s too far back, tighten the screw. If the disc is not dropping low enough, loosen the depth adjustment knob. If it’s dropping too low and binding in the gullet, tighten the knob to raise it.

Once satisfied with the general positioning after a few sequences, turn the disc on. There should be a smooth, even spark pattern.  If there is an aggressive grind and the tooth is overheating, black or blueish marks will appear on the tooth. If this is happening, back the advancer off slightly or raise the grinding head accordingly.

Equal Tooth Adjustment

For an even finer tuned grind, utilize the equal cutting teeth knob. Turn it clockwise to decrease the length of the left cutter and increase the length of the right cutter. Turn it

counterclockwise to increase the length of the left cutter and decrease the length of the right cutter.

Repeat this until both cutters are receiving an even grind. Once a consistent sequence is established, turn on high speed. When finished, inspect the cutters. They should be equal in length, with a clean chrome like line.

Sharpening Depth Gauges

Overtime with usage, cutting teeth will shrink in overall height. This can leave the depth gauges – or rakers – to be taller on the chain and obstruct the path of the cutting teeth through logs. This becomes apparent when the saw is cutting slower despite having sharp teeth. Check this by looking closely at the chain, if the depth gauges are higher than the teeth, sharpen them down.

Measure the distance to be sure with a dedicated feeler gauge. A reminder to once-again check the chain specifications for sharpening the depth gauges.

For sharpening depth gauges – or rake teeth – use the unit’s 6.4mm disc. This is because of the wider surface needed to cover the top of the depth gauge. The disc can either be profiled to match the factory design of the chain’s depth gauges, or it can be left square since only a small tip of the gauge will need to be touched.

Once the 6.4mm disc is installed, adjust the top plate angle to be at zero degrees since the depth gauges do not alternate, they remain uniform. This will leave the grinding head fixed and not alternate positions. Follow the same previous steps for sharpening.

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